I just received this replacement billet throttle control unit (Throttle tube) from evoluzione. Apart from being obviously very well manufactured and using better materials than the OEM Stock plastic KTM piece. Primarily the purpose of this replacement component is to improve the power application specifically at the lower end of the RPM Range.
This is a common gripe I originally read reports of when I was favoring a KTM 990 ADV, and now being an owner for a few weeks I too am starting to wish the Idle to 4-5000 RPM range was a lot smoother.
Riding a road bike it’s easy to see where an aggressive on/off power application can make slow speed maneuvers a lot more heated than they should be. On a large adventure bike this is enhanced as your often moving at slower speeds negotiating all kinds of obstacles on an array of troublesome surfaces. In this kind of environment smooth and controllable power delivery is very important if not essential.
The Evoluzione component is precisely carved from Billet Aluminium and a treat to hold and inspect for someone with an engineering interest. although it’s not until you pull off the stock KTM throttle tube do you truly see what a great favor you doing for the burley 990.
You can see clearly the unique profile that the throttle cables arc round, I wondered how you come about understanding what profile adjustments give varying amounts of throttle control.
The cable ends hook into those holes and the cables run around the end profile, the larger the radius on the profile the less the cable will be pulled for every degree of rotation. As you can see later the KTM stock component looks like a continuous radius and therefore the throttle amount is equal as you rotate the throttle tube.
Well as the installation procedure is so simple I’ll continue with a small guide with pictures to give a understanding how simple it all is… Remember most things on motorcycles can be dangerous, certainly when it’s moving parts, so read as much as you can before playing, have the correct tools and double check everything before buttoning things up.
All you need for this job is a 6mm Allen key, an 8mm socket and a little grease.
This is an ’08 KTM 990 adventure..
I just removed the hand guard from the bar end (using a 6mm allen Key), I’d didn’t think it needed to be completely undone as you don’t need much room and it flexes quite a lot.
Removing the grip from the throttle tube. For me this was quite easy, I’m sure there are 1001 guides in many forums if your’s is a little more stubborn. Remembering my bike is only a few week old innocent lady, she may have not get mated 100%.
My technique for this was to run a small screwdriver under the whole thing and then double the inside over and then wiggle it off. It wasn’t too stuck and with a few small slips off it came.
Although not very clearly shown in this blurry image, using a n 8mm socket to remove two bolts you can then slide the two throttle cables from stock KTM tube and slide it off the bars. Remember to give it a good wiggle first and note the free play as this is the last time you’ll feel this.
In this image comparing the stock tube against the Evoluzine you can clearly see the profile difference. injection molded plastic or machined aluminium billet?
This was just a markup of the profiles and then over laid to show the difference a little better.. It’s all in the arc. Looking at the lower part of the image zoomed you could go from left to right with throttle accumulation getting greater. clearly much lower to start with. This doesn’t represent 100% throttle in any way as i’m not sure how far it rotates to full on off this picture.
You can see the Evo tube doesn’t have the retainer on the outer edge. I wouldn’t think this is required. generally dimensions are very similar.
As mentioned earlier the stock tube fit isn’t so good.
I didn’t have any flexible feeler gauges to measure the gap, but this plastic rule at about 1mm thick was a snug fit.
The Evoluzione is a much more snug fit or more like what i would call a proper slip fit. Quality!
Not getting my technical instrumentation in this one.
I like to smooth a little grease on it here and make sure the cables also have a slippery coating. Now we can reconnect the throttle cables and reattach the clamshell like housing with the 8mm bolts.
I didn’t tighten these guys up too much as I thought some adjustment maybe required when the guard goes back on.
All on looking very tidy indeed. Now we can slip the grip back on and reattach the guard with the 6mm Allen key. I then re-adjusted the thottle cable housing to give a cautious amount of space between the edge of the grip and the guard.
All in all including taking pictures and messing about this took me about 1hr and I’m sure I could have done it in under 30mins without the reporting duties required.
The static feel of the throttle now seems tight without the usual rattle play i’m used to. The free play before any application is the same and no need to adjust the cables . I know some people love to tweak out the throttle freeplay, but for me a few mm past shutoff is a nice feeling.
I had a quick 10 min ride and i’m initially impressed, previously where I would almost immediately shift to 2nd and clutch-a-lot to keep it smooth, i was now just keeping it in 1st and easing on and off at low revs without the bike self testing the suspension with the usual snatch.
Higher in the revs i’m much less concerned with on this machine, I tend to mess about in 10-50% and there is little 50-90% usage.. unlike a sports bike where i’m easing off at 9grand and then rolling on through the apex.
I’ll get back after a little time in the seat and i’m confident loads of snatch-less riding.
Until then a quick night time video of the KTM running with the new tube, When going slow I tried to leave it in 1st and you can maybe tell it’s much more ridable.